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The Magic of New Orleans

Bonne Vacances Travel
New Orleans • Black History • Cultural Travel

Why Hoodoo & Voodoo Run So Deep in New Orleans

And how to experience the city's African spiritual history, Black cultural memory and legendary magic during a short Thanksgiving getaway.

Let me start here: Voodoo is not evil.

And Hoodoo is not some sinister little bag of tricks somebody invented just to put a curse on their neighbor.

🙄

If most of what you know about Voodoo came from horror movies, dolls with pins sticking out of them, zombies, curses and somebody dramatically shaking a chicken foot in the moonlight...

We need to talk.

Because when you come to New Orleans and actually start looking at its history, something becomes very clear:

You cannot properly tell the story of Voodoo in New Orleans without telling the story of Black people.

Enslaved Africans. Free people of color. African and Afro-Creole women. Haitians. Healers. Rootworkers. Priestesses. Musicians. Midwives.

People who prayed to God, honored their ancestors, worked with herbs, attended Catholic Mass, called upon saints and spirits—and somehow managed to preserve pieces of themselves inside a society literally designed to strip those things away.

That is the New Orleans story I want you to experience.

And if you're coming to New Orleans for Thanksgiving, you can work some of this history into your trip without turning your entire vacation into a history class.

I promise. You can still eat. You can still drink. You can still listen to music. You can still wander through the French Quarter. You can still have Thanksgiving dinner.

And yes...

You can still cut up a little bit. 😂

But give me a few hours.

Because underneath the beads, balconies and Bourbon Street is another New Orleans.

And she has a story to tell.

St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter of New Orleans
St. Louis Cathedral, New Orleans. Photo: Thummin12 via Wikimedia Commons. Licensed CC BY 4.0. Full licensing details are included below.

First: Hoodoo and Voodoo Are NOT the Same Thing

We need to get this out of the way before somebody emails me.

Hoodoo and Voodoo share roots in the African diaspora, but they are not interchangeable.

African American Tradition

Hoodoo

Hoodoo—also called conjure or rootwork—developed among enslaved African Americans and their descendants in the United States.

African spiritual traditions interacted with Christianity and the realities of Black life under slavery and segregation.

Roots, herbs, minerals, Psalms, prayer, candles, protective objects, ancestor traditions and spiritual work all became part of a distinctly African American practice.

Louisiana Spiritual Tradition

Voodoo

Louisiana Voodoo developed from West and Central African religious traditions, Caribbean influences—particularly Haiti— and the unusual cultural environment of New Orleans.

Catholic saints, candles, altars, prayers and African spiritual concepts could exist together in ways that confuse people who expect religion to fit into neat little boxes.

Natalie Note ✨

And Haitian Vodou is its own living religious tradition. Related family? Absolutely.

Identical twins?

Nope.

Please don't run around New Orleans calling every African diasporic spiritual practice “Voodoo.” We're going to learn something on this trip. 😌

So Why Did This Become So Big in New Orleans?

There wasn't one single reason.

New Orleans was almost the perfect cultural environment for African, Caribbean and Catholic spiritual traditions to meet each other.

01

A Major African Population

Enslaved Africans arrived carrying languages, religious beliefs, herbal knowledge, music, ritual, healing traditions and ways of relating to ancestors.

02

A Catholic City

Louisiana's Catholic culture already included candles, saints, statues, holy water, altars, incense, sacred objects and petitions. African traditions encountered a religious world filled with visible ritual.

03

Haitian Influence

Migration connected to the Haitian Revolution brought additional Caribbean people, beliefs and cultural traditions into Louisiana.

04

A Constantly Moving Port

Africans, Europeans, Caribbean people, free people of color, enslaved people and immigrants repeatedly crossed paths in one extraordinarily complicated city.

Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park in New Orleans
Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park. Photo: Jason Riedy via Wikimedia Commons. Licensed CC BY 2.0. Full licensing details are included below.

Congo Square: Where Black People Refused to Disappear

If you're interested in this history, Congo Square needs to be one of your stops.

Located inside Louis Armstrong Park in Tremé, Congo Square became famous as a gathering place where enslaved Africans and free people of color gathered on Sundays.

They traded.

They danced.

They sang.

They drummed.

They socialized.

And they maintained pieces of African culture in a world that kept trying to erase it.

Think about what that means.

People who could legally be bought and sold still created spaces that said:

We are here.
We remember.
We have rhythm.
We have spirit.
We have community.
We have traditions that belong to us.

And the cultural importance of Congo Square doesn't stop at spirituality. African rhythm, dance, call-and-response and musical traditions helped shape the larger musical language of New Orleans.

Jazz didn't fall out of the sky either.

Natalie Note ✨

Don't just stand in Congo Square long enough to get your picture.

Give yourself five quiet minutes.

Look around and imagine what hearing those drums might have meant to an enslaved African who spent the rest of the week living under somebody else's control.

New Orleans Icon

And Then There Was Marie Laveau

Okay.

NOW we can talk about Miss Marie. 😌

Because if New Orleans Voodoo had a celebrity, CEO, community organizer, healer, spiritual adviser, public-relations department and legend all rolled into one Black woman...

It would be Marie Laveau.

Marie Laveau was born a free woman of color in New Orleans in 1801 and became the city's most legendary Voodoo leader.

But reducing her to “that Voodoo lady” misses the story.

She was also deeply connected to Catholic life. She became known for spiritual work, charity, healing, assisting people in need and ministering to prisoners.

And remember:

This was antebellum New Orleans.

A Black Creole woman was not supposed to possess enormous institutional power.

Yet Marie Laveau became so culturally powerful that people are still saying her name nearly two centuries later.

That isn't just spooky New Orleans folklore.

That is Black women's history.

Marie Laveau tomb in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans
Marie Laveau's tomb, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Photo: Patrick S. Carroll / Flipper9 via Wikimedia Commons. Released into the public domain. Full source details below.

Marie Laveau Wasn't the Only Black Spiritual Figure

New Orleans Voodoo was not one woman running around the French Quarter by herself.

There were Voodoo queens, kings, healers, conjure workers and spiritual practitioners throughout Black communities.

Historical accounts also remember a powerful figure known as Dr. John—or Bayou John, traditionally described as an African-born practitioner who eventually became an important presence in New Orleans' Voodoo culture.

And Black women were particularly important.

That matters.

In a society where Black women could be denied political power, economic power and even ownership of their own bodies, spiritual and healing traditions could create another kind of authority.

A woman might not be able to vote.

She might have limited legal rights.

She might live under slavery or racial restriction.

But people could still come to her for healing, prayer, protection, herbal knowledge, midwifery, spiritual advice and community leadership.

Power finds a way.

So Why Did Voodoo Become “Evil”?

THIS is the part I really want people to understand.

The scary reputation surrounding African diasporic religions didn't develop inside some innocent historical vacuum.

Black spiritual traditions existed inside societies that already feared Black independence.

And after the Haitian Revolution—when enslaved Black people literally overthrew slavery and colonial rule—white slaveholders had an extremely practical reason to fear African gatherings, Haitian influence and forms of Black organization they didn't understand or control.

Over time, racist journalism and popular culture increasingly turned “Voodoo” into shorthand for something supposedly primitive, frightening, dangerous or immoral.

Then Hollywood got ahold of it.

And baby...

Hollywood RAN with it. 🙄

Zombies. Curses. Human sacrifice. Cannibalism. Voodoo dolls. Demons. Crazy ceremonies.

A complex Black religious and spiritual history became entertainment.

Sometimes what America called “dark” was simply Black culture it did not understand—and could not control.

Does That Mean Everything in Hoodoo or Voodoo Is “Good”?

Now don't twist what I'm saying either. 😂

Humans are humans.

Spiritual traditions around the world can involve healing, justice, protection, petition, divination and attempts to influence circumstances.

But asking whether Voodoo itself is evil makes about as much sense as asking whether Christianity itself is evil because one Christian somewhere prayed for something ugly.

Religions cannot fairly be reduced to their most sensational practices—or to what outsiders claim those practices are.

For many practitioners, African diasporic traditions have centered healing, prayer, protection, ancestors, community, balance and relationships with spiritual beings.

So no.

Walking into a Voodoo museum isn't going to make your head spin around.

Buying a book about Hoodoo isn't automatically opening a portal in your hotel room.

And learning about African ancestral traditions is not inherently demonic.

Calm down. 😂

Historic above-ground tombs in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans
St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, New Orleans. Photo: ksjantz via Wikimedia Commons. Licensed CC BY 4.0. Full licensing details are included below.
Thanksgiving in New Orleans

How to Experience the History During a Short Trip

You don't need an entire week. We can build a meaningful Black spiritual history experience into the trip and still leave plenty of time for food, music and New Orleans foolishness. 😂

Day One
French Quarter: Catholicism, Voodoo & Marie Laveau
St. Louis Cathedral & Jackson Square
Start by understanding Catholic New Orleans. Look at the candles, saints, religious iconography, sacred art and ritual environment.It helps the Voodoo story make considerably more sense.
New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum
Get a compact introduction to New Orleans Voodoo history, Marie Laveau, spiritual objects, gris-gris and folklore.
Voodoo Authentica
Visit a contemporary spiritual and cultural space and remember: these aren't simply dead traditions locked inside museums.
French Quarter Dinner
Because I said historical experience. I did NOT say we're starving. 😂
Day Two
Tremé, Congo Square & Black Cultural Memory
Congo Square
Give yourself enough time to actually stand in the space, read the historical markers and understand why African gathering, music, dance and religion mattered here.
Explore Tremé
One of America's oldest Black neighborhoods and essential ground for understanding New Orleans culture.
Backstreet Cultural Museum
Learn about Black Masking Indians, jazz funerals, social aid and pleasure clubs, Baby Dolls and other African American cultural traditions.
Day Three
Go See Marie
St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 Guided Tour
Visit the tomb traditionally associated with Marie Laveau through an authorized tour and put everything you've learned into context.
Now you're not simply visiting “the Voodoo Queen.”You're visiting the resting place associated with a free Black Creole woman whose cultural influence outlived nearly every institution that tried to limit women like her.

If You Only Have ONE Afternoon

CONGO SQUARE   →   TREMÉ   →   VOODOO MUSEUM   →   VOODOO AUTHENTICA   →   FRENCH QUARTER DINNER

Please Don't Be That Tourist 🙄

A few rules for experiencing spiritual New Orleans respectfully.
Don't assume every Black New Orleanian practices Voodoo. Absolutely not.
Don't call every practitioner a witch. Voodoo priestess, Hoodoo practitioner, rootworker, conjure worker, spiritualist and witch are not automatic synonyms.
Don't touch altars or offerings without permission. Please. 😐
Don't photograph ceremonies unless you've been told it's okay. Some things are for tourists. Some things are sacred. Learn the difference.
Do not vandalize Marie Laveau's tomb. Somebody's resting place is not your TikTok prop.
And don't walk in asking someone to curse your ex. And don't judge me if you see me do it. This is a no judgment zone! 😂

Why Thanksgiving Is Actually a Great Time to Explore This Side of New Orleans

A Thanksgiving getaway to New Orleans already gives you food, history, music, architecture and one of America's most distinctive Black cultural landscapes.

So while we're there...

Add something different.

Maybe one morning is Congo Square and Tremé.

Maybe one afternoon is a Voodoo history tour.

Maybe you visit Marie Laveau.

Maybe you talk with a practitioner.

Maybe you buy a handmade gris-gris bag and actually learn what it means instead of treating it like a spooky souvenir.

Or maybe you simply learn enough about New Orleans Voodoo to go home saying:

“Wow. I had that completely wrong.”

And THAT is one of my favorite things about traveling.

Travel should occasionally ruin a misconception for you.

You should come home knowing something you didn't know when you left.

New Orleans Isn't “Magical” by Accident

There is a reason this city feels different.

Part of it is architecture.

Part of it is music.

Part of it is the Mississippi River.

Part of it is humidity.

And part of it is 300 years of everybody's business being everybody else's business.

😂

But underneath all of that is memory.

African memory.

Caribbean memory.

Creole memory.

Catholic memory.

Black American memory.

The memory of people who survived slavery and still found reasons to dance.

The memory of women who weren't supposed to have power becoming spiritual authorities anyway.

The memory of ancestors who crossed oceans carrying little more than what they could remember.

And sometimes memory becomes ritual.

Sometimes memory becomes music.

Sometimes memory becomes prayer.

Sometimes memory becomes a root tucked inside a bag.

Sometimes memory becomes a candle beside the image of a saint.

Sometimes memory becomes a drumbeat in Congo Square.

And sometimes...

memory becomes magic.

Image Credits & Licensing

Bonne Vacances Travel Agency is not affiliated with Wikimedia Commons or the photographers.Creative Commons licenses permit reuse subject to the terms of the applicable license.

Bonne Vacances Travel Agency

Come Experience New Orleans This Thanksgiving

Come eat. Come explore. Come listen to the music. Come experience Black New Orleans.And while we're there, let's learn why Hoodoo, Voodoo, African spirituality, Catholicism, Creole culture and ancestral traditions became woven so deeply into the story of this extraordinary city.

Plan My New Orleans Trip

And bring comfortable shoes.
We have some ancestors to go visit. ✨

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